Project introduction in English

 

With the accelerating biodiversity loss, the climate crisis and the problems caused by industrial production, there is a widespread interest in dyeing textiles with natural dyes. Also Finnish craft enthusiasts, professional dyers and researchers alike have rediscovered traditional natural dye plants and their potential. However, current knowledge about traditional dyeing methods, dye professionals and the diverse uses of natural dyes is in many respects incomplete. Our new research project "Controlled Colours: natural dyes, professional dyers and trading of dyes as a part of societal change (1400–1850)" focuses on the importance of natural dyes, artisanal dyers and traders - such as apothecaries and local merchants - in Europe from the 15th to the mid-19th century. The production, trade and use of dyed textiles were highly regulated: consumption and the professions that possessed dyeing know-how were regulated, while the costume of different social groups and the use of dyed textiles were controlled by cultural norms and the meanings attached to colours. In addition, material culture was influenced by economy and finances. By studying these themes, we can, among other things, address the development of consumer culture, the growth of wealth and the broader societal changes that underpinned them in the long term. The results of our multidisciplinary and multi-sited research project will challenge previous perceptions of a people dressed in grey, as suggested by popular culture. The project will create a more colourful picture of the lives of people from the past. 

 

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